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Mutiny!

Truth be told, I'm really only writing this post to show off a sampling of what I believe to be fantastic photographs of my last two weeks working on a boat.  One of the crew members actually had a half-decent camera, and the results (compared to my own camera's paltry offerings) are rather pleasing to the eye.  And what's the point of a blog if the readers' eyes aren't pleased?

ARE YOUR EYES PLEASED YET?!

Life shipside was a swell experience, with plenty of scrubbing, sanding, and painting to fill my days.  There was a significant lack of cannons, though the daily gin and tonic's at sundown were enough of a nautical tradition to keep my soggy soles satisfied.  I fully support reinstating a daily ration of spirits aboard all US Naval vessels-- if we have any desire to maintain naval superiority it's the only way to keep seaman functioning properly.  Nothing is perfect though, and after two weeks I decided to cut my intended month short and depart the boat before it was to be hauled out into a slip for hull maintenance.  Sometimes people are bigots, and there's not a whole lot to be done about it but leave.
A damn fine tradition.

One night, the crew took a special excursion to land to watch a local Chinese Taoist festival.  Starting at the temple, the festival involved hundreds of white-clothed Chinese burned incense and beating drums as a series of brightly-lit floats were prepared.  At some super-secret cue, the procession began and the slow winding three-hour parade down to the sea began.  Throughout the parade were nine men resembling nine different emperors (when inquiring upon the name of the festival, I was told "the Chinese Festival of the Nine Emperors," so I'm guessing these guys were kind of a big deal), each dressed in a uniquely ornate costume and maintaining a cadence of ambulation that would have permitted all nine immediate entrance into the Ministry of Silly Walks.  I shit you not, for the five or so kilometers and how ever many creeping hours the procession lasted, these guys waltzed, samba'd, and cha-cha'd their ways down the cordoned-off streets.  One even had a six-foot staff that he spun in the most overzealous of fashions, much to the concern of the possy meant to be escorting him.  Half way into the route, the procession came upon a Chinese-owned liquor store where each of the emperors took a detour through and replenished their reserves of sacred Taoist holy nectar (AKA Carlsberg).  Once the sea was reached, a giant paper mache boat was lit on fire and everyone promptly vacated the area.
Beware his supreme mystical Danish-beer-fueled powers!

I'd like to take a moment now to discuss natives.  I don't mean aboriginal peoples or even local inhabitants, I mean travelers who take the distance from their homelands a little too much to heart.  Sometimes they're easily recognizable by the substitution of all articles of clothing with a single sarong.  Other times they can be spotted successfully haggling at local meat and produce markets.  Yet the one common giveaway that all westerners-gone-native share is their proclivity for slurping.  Finding themselves in Asia, where the use of chopsticks and spoons creates an environment ripe with slurp-happy diners, these individuals all seem to decide that the best way to be accepted by the local culture is to slurp as freely and loudly as possible.  I've seen it in fifteen-year expats and two-week vacationers.  I am at the same time baffled and impressed by how easily they give up what, to me, is a concrete western sensibility.  One puts one's utensil fully inside one's mouth.  One closes one's mouth.  One removes the utensil while keeping one's mouth closed, simultaneously removing the accompanying food.  No effort is saved by placing the utensil only half-way in and sucking with violent force at the contents.  Slurping is not necessary.  Hell, I'll outright say it; slurping is the wrong way to do it.  Stop it.  Just stop it.
Abandoning ship is the only way to escape such a cacophonous faux pas. 

So my dreams of being a swashbuckling privateer conquering Cape Horn and establishing a vast maritime empire may still be a little ways off from realization, but dammit if I won't be able to paint wires like a pro when that time comes.  Back shoreside I've been enjoying some incredible Indian food while figuring out what to do for the next two or three weeks before I fly to Istanbul, not Constantinople.  Who knows, maybe I'll just grab a sarong and slurp curry 'til the twentieth.  As a little reward to my premium readers though, here's a sneak peak at next week's episode of Extreme Painting: Malaysia.

Extreme!


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I'm on a boat!

I know it's been a little while since I've last posted, and unfortunately it'll probably be this way for the forseeable future.  However, that's only really because I'm so busy doing awesome stuff.  Since we last left off, I've made a significant shift in my travel style and am now work exchanging my way around the world.  My last two weeks were spent on Koh Lanta, an island off the coast of southern Thailand, working at a guesthouse/organic farm doing construction on a cafe using only clay and other local materials.  It was a very easy-going place, where long siestas broke up the hot hours of working the clay under the blazing tropical sun.  Each day, I'd get off work at around six, change into my swim trunks and go wash off in the Andaman Sea as the sun set over the distant islands and the squid boats heading out for their nightly rounds.  It was paradise, and I didn't often spend more than a couple dollars a day... usually on beer.
 That.

Paradise wasn't without its flaws though.  When I arrived, the couple that were hosting me were running a funky guesthouse in addition to their farm where the clay cafe is being constructed.  Within a couple days of me arriving, however, it was revealed that they had sold the guesthouse and us few helpers would move over to the farm.  Apparently things with the sale weren't as smooth as they should've been, because by the time the guesthouse was handed over to its new owners, my host couple had gotten into a series of (awkwardly) heated arguments and split up.  I'm pretty sure they weren't married, but they did have a child together.  So then there was a lot of that "she's my kid-- no she's my kid" drama while the volunteers just kept trying to pretend like we didn't notice anything.  Oh and I shot myself in the finger with a nail gun.  All in all though, fun times.
I built a chicken coop!  Well, more of a chicken lean-to, really.

Now I'm farther south, off the coast of Malaysia, working on a seventy-foot traditional Malaysian yacht.  This boat's got more teak than that giant millipede that fell on my head a few days ago had legs.  Right off the bat, the skipper put my skills as a SCUBA diver to use scraping a few years worth of barnacle, mussel, and even coral growth off the bottom of the hull.  I'm a specialist!  Otherwise, there's been a lot of scrubbing, sanding, and painting, in various orders.  We'll be hauling the ship out into a slip in a couple of weeks to do maintainenance on the hull, but until then we're sailing around Langkawi and enjoying the tropical island beauty that is abound.
I'm on a boat, motherf*ckers!

Come mid-November, I'll be flying on to Turkey where I'll continue to work in exchange for room and board.  It really is an incredible system to travel while still learning new skills and feeling productive.  Not to mention it makes travelling cheap as hell.  Also, have I mentioned that I'm living on a luxury yacht off the coast of Malaysia right now?  Damn straight, bro.

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Shifting gears

I've spent the last handful of days doing some major research.  I've grown a little bored of my traveling routine, feeling much more like a tourist than pleases me, so I set out to find a remedy to that.  My solution, after debating with myself all forms of volunteering, working, and general time-killing, is to pursue work-exchange programs.  These programs generally function by working on someone's farm/estate/business/boat/etc for four to six hours a day in return for free room and board.  While WWOOF, the popular organic farm volunteering network, falls under this category, I will also be utilizing other resources that offer opportunities beyond farming.  I have found a number of useful and reputable resources for locating available work exchanges and have already located a plethora of enticing opportunities in just about every country I could ever want to visit.  The most notable benefit to this mode of traveling is cost.  As it stands, I would estimate that food and lodging comprise at least three quarters of my expenditures.  In many other parts of the world (Europe in particular), those costs are far too great for my meager budget to accommodate.  However, once those expenses are eliminated, the only significant fee becomes transportation, which is mild in contrast.  As such, my dreams of traveling through North Africa and even into southern Europe may now be fully realized.

Furthermore, I will finally be doing something.  Be it farming, construction, maintenance, or even just cleaning, I'll be using my hands and gaining experiences living in a local environment.  I may miss out on some of the guidebook "sights," but I feel pretty damned sight-ed out by now.  That's not to say that I feel these last three months have been a waste-- quite the contrary.  The experiences I've had thus far, in addition to the time I've had to gather my wits, have been invaluable.  However, now I'm ready for something more and look forward to my shift into becoming a working traveler with great zeal.

It's like I've been kicked in the face with enthusiasm.

In between epiphanies, I also spent some time exploring the backpacker hotspot of Chiang Mai.  A surprisingly bustling little city, there's plenty of night markets and food stalls to take advantage of here.  After the thirty-eighth flyer was handed to me, I finally caved and bought a ticket to the night's Muay Thai boxing match.  One of the fighters in the lineup was American, so I figured it'd be good to show my support.  Man, Muay Thai is brutal.  There's a bone-cracking emphasis on using knees and elbows, though just about anything is fair game.  Half of the fights ended in the first round with pretty savage knockouts.  The heavier weights usually didn't end with knockouts, but instead endured five vicious rounds of kicks to the face and knees to the abdomen.  Having a front-row seat, I could even hear the crack as a fighter's ribs were snapped like autumn twigs by the uncompromising knee of his opponent.  He attempted to continue fighting, but at the first glancing blow to his abs, he crumpled as if he were no more than a marionette with its strings severed.  Fun times, though I couldn't quite figure out how to place a bet.
Good thing, cause I would've lost that bet.

If you ever have the opportunity to see a Muay Thai match though, do it.  They're a really fascinating experience.  From the praying/dancing the fighters do for five minutes before the match to the bizarre and chaotic music that played throughout the fights, it was a hell of a time.  The following day, I decided that Thai food is just too damn delicious and enrolled myself in a cooking class.  Best.  Decision.  Ever.  We cooked (and ate) six dishes, with all the ingredients organically grown on site.  I ate so much that I was forced to put my last dish, pad thai, in a takeaway container for later.  I've always been a sucker for Thai curry, but hot damn is it delectable after you've ground down the spices into a curry paste yourself.  It's also really painful when you get chili bits in your eye, but I was too engrossed in how delicious all my food was to care.
FOR THE LOVE OF GOD AND ALL THINGS HOLY MY EYES ARE BLEEDING!!!

So that was most of Chiang Mai.  I'll be heading to crazy Bangkok tonight, though I'm sure I'll be more than ready to leave in a couple days.  One can only tolerate so many go-go bars full of ladyboys.  Then it's on to the beaches and hopefully diving of southern Thailand, where I'll also eventually participate in my first work exchange program.  Before long, I intend to buy a ticket to somewhere along the lines of Turkey or Jordan and begin the next leg of my journey: The Mediterranean.
They have massive Hindu/Buddhist sculpture parks there too, right?

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Easy but difficult

I am a man of preparation.  I tend to follow the old adage, "measure twice and cut once."  I always check all of my equipment many times over before going out on a camping trip, scuba diving, rock climbing, you name it.  Even before I go for a drive I have a habit of checking all the basic systems of the vehicle.  I'm trained in multiple forms of emergency rescue.  I know how to land a small airplane in an emergency.  Likewise, I read a lot.  I research everything I may need to know about an upcoming experience, be it a purchase, a class selection, or my next destination.  Thus, after talking to countless souls and reading an immeasurable amount of text on traveling to Thailand I was mortified to find myself caught off-guard upon encountering a major, nay, an essential fact about this country that every one of my sources had neglected to reveal: they drive on the left-hand side of the road.

Imagine now, if you will, my utmost fear upon getting off of the border-crossing bus in Nong Khai and attempting to cross the street.  I look to the left, see that all is clear and step off the curb.  As I turn my head to the right to check the next lane of traffic, my gaze is suddenly met by an all-too-near van coming right at me, horn blaring.  "Fucking idiot!," I think as the Thai driver swerves around me but returns to the left-hand side of the road.  Then I notice the orientation of all of the parked cars.  As a new stream of left-handed traffic passes by my paralyzed form, it dawns on me that I have been defeated.  Wrong-sided traffic has eluded all of my detection systems and breached my perimeter of preparedness.  Congratulations Thailand, you and your incorrect road rules have forced me to submit to you, the victor.  Here is my sword, my gun and badge, my white flag.  That said, you have my word that this will never happen again.  You have been warned, Alderney, Anguilla, Antigua and Barbuda, Australia, Bahamas, Bangladesh, Barbados, Bermuda, Bhutan, Botswana, Brunei, Caymans, Christmas Island, Cocos Islands, Cook Islands, Cyprus, Dominica, East Timor, Falkland Islands, Fiji, Grenada, Guernsey, Guyana, Hong Kong, India, Indonesia, Ireland, Isle of Man, Jamaica, Japan, Jersey, Kenya, Kiribati, Lesotho, Macau, Malawi, Malaysia, Maldives, Malta, Mauritius, Motserrat, Mozambique, Namibia, Nauru, Nepal, New Zealand, Niue, Norfolk Island, North Korea, Pakistan, Papau New Guinea, Pitcairn Islands, Saint Helena, Cunha, Saint Kitts and Nevis, Saint Lucia, Saint Vincent and the Grenadines, Samoa, Seychelles, Singapore, Solomon Islands, South Africa, Sri Lanka, Suriname, Swaziland, Tanzania, Thailand, Tokelau, Tonga, Trinidad and Tobago, Turks and Caicos, Tuvalu, Uganda, United Kingdom, British Virgin Islands, U.S. Virgin Islands, Zambia, and Zimbabwe.

And they put bunnies in dresses.  Weirdos.

Before I was sabotaged by all of the current travel literature on Thailand, I spent a few days trekking through the jungles of northern Laos.  It was some really incredible hiking through the thick of the jungle in a protected area near the border of China.  The first day had a lot of rain, which meant the trail was more or less a solid sheet of mud for the eight-ish hours of hiking.  In the sections where bushwhacking was required, the underbrush was too thick to really fall per se, as I was more occupied with not getting trapped in the endless thickets of reeds, brambles, and vines.  The more passable regions turned into something of a filthy and painful ice-skating path.  It was like a shittier version of cross-country skiing, which is saying a lot because that "sport" is terrible enough as it is.  The last hour or so was a constant downhill series of switchbacks, with little in the way of handholds and an incredible amount of tumbling.  I was the first non-guide to make it down to the night's camp, with the last of my group arriving at least an hour later.  Yet as exhausted as I was, for some reason I couldn't fall asleep on my single-banana-leaf-bed.  So strange.
I can see China!

The next day was much drier and resulted in a much more pleasant hike.  Before heading out, I happened to ask the guide how difficult the hiking would be, as the group seemed awfully worn from the previous days inundation of mud.  He thought about it for a moment, and then says, "Easy."  "Easy?  Well that's nice."  "Yes, easy.  But difficult."  "Difficult?" I ask, confused, "But you just said easy."  "Yes, yes,"  the guide insists, "Easy but difficult."  I thought about that for a while, looked at him and said, "You, sir, are a terrible guide."  After about five hours of easy but difficult hiking, we arrived at a tribal mountain village.  After bathing in the stream and having every child in the village follow us to show off their back-flips into two feet of water, we bought a duck for dinner.  The duck was a real trooper, hardly complained as the back of its neck was sliced open for it to bleed to death.  But damn was it tasty.  Being a guest of honor, I was given the finest bed on a bamboo mat next to the pigs' sty.  Another splendid night of sleep.
I'm mostly sure they had no intention to eat me.

After some kayaking and finally returning to civilization, I was finally faced with the necessity to take a twenty hour bus all the way back down to Vientiane.  All right, I figured, I've seen the Lao sleeper buses and they don't seem all that bad.  I've got some movies on my laptop and a new book to read.  I'll just hunker down and probably sleep for most of the ride.  Unfortunately, my booking agent cheated me and I was put on a local bus, sitting upright and with little room to move, surrounded by vomiting Lao's and assaulted by Lao karaoke for twenty-three hours straight.  It seems as if Southeast Asia is testing me, trying to figure out what my breaking point with public transportation is.  Dammit, I shall remain steadfast!

A couple visits to the Thai embassy and a day at the sauna later, and I'm in Thailand.  Thailand!  I've successfully made it to all four of my originally planned destinations.  Everything from here on out is anybody's guess.  But for the time being, I am enjoying Thailand a good bit.  The food is just incomparable.  I can still see Laos across the Mekong from my guesthouse, yet the food is orders of magnitude better here than what lies on the other side of that ubiquitous body of water.  Last night, I indulged an the most mouth-watering plate of pad thai that I've ever had the good fortune to shove chopsticks into.  You know how much it set me back?  One dollar.  One damned dollar.  The beer's a little more expensive here than elsewhere in the region, but with food this cheap and absurdly delicious, I am not one to complain.  Hell, I may even be able to overlook the incorrect driving arrangements.
And who can say no to that?

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The good, the bad, and the vomiting

Today I was vomited on.  I knew something of this sort would happen eventually along my travels, and in all likelihood it will happen again.  In fact, it wasn't all that bad-- as far as getting puked on goes, at least.  More than anything, it was downright bizarre.  I found myself unable to be upset as I was simply overwhelmed by confusion.

The tale starts off like most other accounts of misery; on a bus.  Actually, it was a van, but the two are often interchangeable around Southeast Asia.  The only difference being that a van rather restricts your individual mobility, which is key for the story at hand.  Anyhow, the van sets out in the morning through the breathtaking mountains of northern Laos.  For the first half of the eight-hour trip, the roads are treacherously rough and the ride is a violent, jerky, and painful one.  It is a ride requiring constant bracing to prevent your teeth from bashing against the seat ahead and your head from cracking the window.  Oblivious to this, the local girl sitting packed next to me insists on trying to sleep.  Deciding my shoulder is her best bet, she repeatedly nods off on top of me, only to almost immediately be violently jarred awake by the hopping of the van causing my shoulder to almost knock her teeth out.  Yet like a hermit crab reaching its eye sockets back from under its shell, within seconds she resumes her slumber atop my volatile shoulder.  This process repeats itself many hundred times over the next four or five hours.

This was the least blurry picture I took in that van.

Finally, after stopping for lunch, the journey resumes on much smoother (Chinese-built) roads.  While the road still curves like a small intestine, the smoothness now allows the driver to proceed at a much greater velocity.  I'd be curious to run a study examining the average vestibular fluid density of various ethnicities because I wouldn't be surprised if those of Asian descent tend to have more viscous vestibular fluid.  Regardless of the cause though, within a short time of departing lunch, the van devolves into a self-contained vomitorium barreling through the Himalayan foothills at fifty kilometers an hour.  First to fall prey to the bulimic ballet was none other than my good friend, Miss Shouldersleeper.  Now at this point I'm a little fuzzy on what happened.  I was reading, and trying not to pay attention to all my green-faced companions, as my neighbor reaches behind me and rummages through some items.  After a little while, I notice she's still leaning behind me and hasn't really moved much.  At the same time, I realize my back is wet and it's not nearly hot enough for that to be sweat.  A probing swipe of the hand returns a small amount of partially digested sticky rice.  Okay.  I've been vomited on.  This is happening.  Yet the girl continues to mind her own business, even acting as if nothing has happened.  I stare, mouth hung open like a cow in mid-chew, baffled by her nonchalance.  My perplexed state refuses to abate as she continues to vomit throughout the remaining two hours, occasional using a tiny bag to catch the excretions but often failing.  All the while, not a single word was said.

Maybe it's Lao etiquette to yak on the nearest foreigner, maybe I should feel honored.  A lot of thoughts went through my mind as I was pressed up against the window, covered in slowly drying pho regurgitate, but none of them could rationalize the events into a state of normalcy.  I've seen and experienced a lot of absurd things in the last few months, but this undercover upchuck has undoubtedly wedged itself in the upper rankings of strange.
Don't worry, that's just water.

The last week hasn't been all throw-up, though there was enough of that to observe in Vang Vieng as well.  The Cancun of Southeast Asia, Vang Vieng is an eternal celebration of tubing, blaring party music, endless alcohol, and Family Guy and Friends being played 24/7.  The days following were painful indeed.  Luckily my next stop was Luang Prabang, as French a town as you'll ever find in Southeast Asia.  Cafes and bakeries were abound and I had no reservations on indulging.  Saw some waterfalls and caves, you know the deal.  
Just a cave with THOUSANDS OF BUDDHA SCULPTURES.

I had mentioned my intentions to volunteer previously.  Unfortunately, the place turned out to be more of a scam than an opportunity to give back so I decided to move on.  This now means I'll be going to Thailand sooner than I expected, which also means I have to go all the way back down to Vientiane to get my Thai visa.  Stay tuned for my next post where you can bet your bottom dollar I'll be discussing the twenty hour bus ride to get there.  Until then, I'm gonna enjoy some biking around and (hopefully) jungle trekking in Luang Namtha.
Lovely Luang Prabang

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